Our Second Visit to Naselesele, Our Second Mistake

The next day the weather was fine and we headed back towards Naselesele where we knew there was a good store (shop). It was Sunday and we knew it wouldn't be open, but we planned to shop on Monday and leave again on Tuesday. Ha, it was not to be.

The wind came up in the night and built and although the anchorage is protected by a huge reef, there's a long fetch for the wind waves to build inside of it. There are only 2 wee islands to windward of us, so we felt quite exposed to the brunt of the wind from the southeast. There were a couple small reefs behind us, so if we drg anchor we might hit one rudder first.  Not good.  The anchor held well, but we didn't dare leave the boat for a day or so. After a few days, the winds finally settled down, we were able to get ashore and do our shopping, eat out and get on the internet. It was time to move on to nearby Matagi.

After the winds subsided and the weather cleared, we overheard radio traffic among the friends we were with at Matawa.  Most of the group was moving on to the north side of Vanua Levu and we were headed the other way.  We would continue to be on our own and we would miss them.

Buca Bay, Our First Mistake

The wind was forecast to veer around to the north and Matawa is exposed in that direction, so we decided to move on. We also needed some supplies and the cruising guide said there was a store. So we headed south towards Buca Bay. The bay is also somewhat open to the north, but has some sheltered anchorages. It's on the east side of Vanua Levu, which mind you, is the second largest Fijian island.  So we didn't expect it to be completely remote.

Buca Bay is quite open and there were a few settlements around ,but it was difficult to figure out exactly where to go. There is one tiny jetty (a dock), but with few buildings near it. A ferry stops somewhere in the area, but it was hard to figure out where it might land. So after circling around, we headed towards the largest group of buildings on shore. We saw a bus pass by along the shore, so we couldn't be that remote. There was a woman and child fishing from a raft near the boat so we asked was the store nearby. Big smile, then blank stare. We reasked if there was a shop nearby. Big smile, oh yes, here in the village. The houses were very poor indeed, and although there was a fair amount of litter on the beach, the village itself is neat and tidy, as are most Fiji villages.

It was very quiet, just a few adults in their yards. We passed a small, shuttered shack, which turned out to be the shop. A tall man came out from one yard and we asked where was the shop. He smiled and said hello, sort of. He appeared to be disabled or retarded and we couldn't really converse.

We then figured out that the shuttered shack was the store and friendly young woman came from across the lane and opened it up for us. The stock was meager to say the least: onions, rice, toilet paper ($2.35fj - how many could afford that?, I wondered), canned tuna, and gummy candies. A few onlookers stopped by to see what we were doing.  I bought some tuna, onions and rice although I didn't really need them. There was long list of names on a sheet posted on the door. She explained that the villagers take turns paying for the village generator fuel. The store owners bring a truckload, and then each week different families pay for the week's allotment. The price of oil had really jumped in 2010 and 2011, and it's a real hardship on these people with very little cash income. They can't trade fruit for fuel.

The bay was a bit open and we didn't want to stay, so we headed across the bay to the east side of Kioa Island. There is huge aquaculture area there. No pens were in evidence, so we think it is for pearls. The island is high with steep bluffs and thickly covered with jungle. We anchored in a quiet by fringed by mangroves, The steep sided shores usually lead to steep sloping seabeds, making it difficult to anchor a safe distance from shore. We found a reasonably shallow spot (40-50ft) where a stream outflow left a pad of sediment. There was no wind and the water was glassy. This is a very unusual circumstance in the islands. With no signs of habitation, no boats, and no sounds but birds and the occasional fish splashing.

We spent a very peaceful night there.  It was to be the last for several days.

Rabi Island, Fiji

We left Naselesele after a week and moved to Katherine Bay at the south end of Rabi Island (pronounced Ramby).  The inhabitants were relocated from Banaba Island near the equator.  First the British swindled them and exploited the guano deposits, devastating the environment.  Then the Japanese invaded and enslaved the population.  Somehow the survivors were evacuated by the British to Rabi in 1945.  I guess Rabi was purchased or otherwise appropriated from the Fijians for copra plantations (coconuts).

Katherine Bay is a very quiet, deep V-shaped bay surrounded by mangroves.  There's a village with a really big church for such a small place.  After a night or two, we moved up to Motawa (Albert Cove) at the north end of the island.  Here's where we first encountered submerged reefs extended across what looks like open water.  We gingerly crossed a 16 foot depth before it dropped off again.

We later moved to beautiful Motawa at the north end of Rabi Island.   Motawa is a stunningly beautiful, curved cove, surrounded by craggy verdant jungle peaks.  There are protective reefs across the entrance and outside in the sea.  

Albert Cove (photo doesn't do it justice)

There are just a few houses and shacks.  Migrant farmers from the nearby small town camp there in shacks or thatched huts and gather crops (kava, bananas, copra, papayas and egglplant). And they spearfish.  The price of fuel is really high and is a real burden for these people who get around in big open boats with outboards. The residents were  friendly (and happy to see new faces probably), as has everyone we've met in Fiji.  A couple led some yachties on a hike.  They are all quite poor, so they need various things.  In this case, laundry soap, in addition to T-shirts and baseball caps.  The Banabans speak their own language (vs Fijian, though everybody speaks English) and maintain their own culture. They are delightful hospitible people and it was a pleasure to meet them.

We started running low on supplies, so we left to visit what we thought might be a "town" with a store.  That was our first mistake.'

Naselesale, Taveuni Island, Fiji

View of anchorage.  Jarana is tiny spec behind a palm

We left Viani Bay and met up with the rest of the fleet at Naselesele at the north end of Taveuni.  The anchorage seems very open surrounded by reef, and only 20-40ft deep.  But it turned out to be a good spot. 

Helen & Steve (not Kathi & Bill)

There is a store and a couple restaurants.  A big group of us took a bus to the famed Lavena National Park and took the guided walk to the waterfall.It's a great walk along the shore and then into the jungle.  There are pools below the falls to swim in, but they are very cold.  

More Viani Bay Photos

What lurks underwater:

Mighty Big Clam - looks more like a jack o'lantern

Cabbage Coral - big as garbage can lids!

Normal sized English Friends Jacqui & Dave, Jarana in the background

Viani Bay, Vanua Levu

Viani Bay is a few miles east of Fawn Harbor.  The extended Fisher family lives there, among others.  There's also a school.  Jack Fisher, the grandfather, is MajorDomo and dive and snorkel guide.  For a modest fee, he escorts you on your boat out to the famous Rainbow Reef that protects the bay.  He also delivers fruit and picks up rubbish.

When we were there, a number of our friends were also there, so Jack would escort us en masse out to the reef.   One day, our friends on Jackster hosted the group.  A couple days later, Oso Blanco, a big powerboat hosted us out at the reef.  What a treat!


The local school put on a lovo, which is the Fijian feast, as a fund raiser for their school.  They really know how to put on a feast.

Opening the lovo (underground oven fired with coconut husks

)

 

Preparing the kava (mmm, looks good - Not)

Kava Circle (Bill in the loud shirt)

Kids keep the flies off the food with fronds

Lovo Laides

Fawn Harbor, Vanua Levu

We finally escaped rainy SavuSavu around the end of May.  Our first stop was Fawn Harbor Fawn Harbor is enclosed with mangroves and is a very protected bay. 

 Some of the locals use ingenious boats made from corrogated metal panels.

The extended Pickering family owns a big area of property there known as the Pickering Plantation.  There are a dozen houses or so spread out over a hillside.  Of Mr. Pickering's 8 grown sons in their 50s and 60s, only one is alive.  The rest died of either diabetes, alcohol or hypertension related illnesses.  The widows are supported by their children.  

 
Arthur (the oldest and only surviving son) and Sandra Pickering have 4 children.  Their oldest has just graduated from the University of the South Pacific with a degree in fisheries.  The younger children are in the local schools.  They also care for the 14yo retarded daughter of a niece who just left her there as an 11mo baby!  They also care for 4 nephews whose 35yo mother died suddenly of a stroke.  Their father works on a cattle ranch and visits when he can.

All this sounds like the consequences of bad western diets.  Sandra also cares for the 11mo old nephew whose mother is a school teacher.  This child is delayed developing and is not even trying to walk, and barely crawls.  He's not very playful and doesn't eat well.  There are some government clinics here with limited ability to help.