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Friday, July 8, 2011

First Week in Fiji

  Here's a typical scene from our lives:  Bill at the computer/nav station.  Kathi at the kitchen sink.  (Kathi:  That's not how I pictured my life aboard.)


We arrived in Fiji May 20th making landfall at SavuSavu on the island of Vanua Levu.  You clear in with Quarantine, Agriculture, Immigration and Customs.  A policemen and boat driver came aboard as well.  They are really pleasant people and we see them around town (as we did in the Marquesas), so it's good to get started on a positive note.  The formalities are kind of a nice transition into a new country. 

We brought quite a bit of liquor, wine and beer.  The duty on liquor is really high, but not so much on wine and beer.   So we got by with paying $96F (about $58US) to bring in 8 bottles of wine and 2 cases of beer. However, the customs officer is such a delightful woman, you don't mind paying.  It's worth it for the wine.  There's plenty of beer for sale in Fiji.
SavuSavua st is eamy jungle town.  After the exhaustion of the passage, the work needed to dry out the boat and all our possessions before the mildew took over was really draining.  It was just too hot and muggy below, so Mike slept in the cockpit, covered with mosquito netting against the bugs and a shower curtain to keep the rain off.  Kathi just slept under the fan on the settee.  Bill somehow just slept where fell.
Sunday family rafting trip

Mike Webster
Fijians get around










We hired a taxi for a trip up to a national park in the mountains.  The island interior is dense jungle and craggy peaks.

Friday, May 20, 2011

Passage Summary

Here's a recap of our passage from Whangarei, New Zealand to Savu Savu, Fiji.

At the time we left, the weather models were showing mostly light winds, so we bought two extra jugs of diesel to carry on deck. There was a high to the SE of Fiji creating some north winds in that area, but it was expected to move off. It didn't.

We left Marsden Cove Marina and beat up the New Zealand coast. Late evening, the wind went light and we motored north, still expecting favorable conditions soon. The next morning found us on a beat again, and the morning's weather models showed that the wind would be on our nose for 2 - 3 more days.

For most of the passage this trend in the forecast continued. As good as the GFS weather model seemed to be on our way down to New Zealand, it seemed to be off on the way back north. The big fat high SE of Fiji inexplicably expanded to the north rather than move off to the east as is normal, leaving us with strong north winds. The South Pacific Convergence Zone lie across our path with favorable winds to the west, which would have been great if we wanted to go to New Caledonia, but we were worried about the SE trades returning when the high moved off, so we kept to the east as much as we could.

The pilot charts showed the occurrence of north winds in May to be very seldom, and then, only force two on average. I think the pilot charts may be in need of an update.

If the winds weren't on our nose, they were just light. At one point, we began to worry about running out of fuel as we motored through the convergence zone, but then the wind filled in from (you guessed it) the northeast, and we continued sailing to weather.

The most wind we saw was about 34 knots. During the night, one of the extra fuel jugs broke loose from its lashings and was washed overboard. (I'm sorry, I'm sorry, I'm sorry).

The boat went fast to weather (7 to 8 knots), but it was pounding very badly and we needed to slow down, Even with two reefs and the jib rolled down to a #3, we were too fast. Without a jib, the boat wouldn't climb to weather at all. We were able to get the speed down to a comfortable 5 knots by rolling the headsail down to the size of a storm jib.

After this phase, I went forward to check the boat over, The pin that secured the anchor to the bow roller had fallen out so that the anchor was only held in position by the tension of the chain around the windlass. This had NEVER happened before, so I replaced the pin, and added a lashing to secure the anchor just in case. I also discovered that the lashing that held the fender boards in place along the lifelines had nearly chafed through and had to be replaced. Worse, we discovered a vertical tear in the main, just below the 2nd reef point, and a badly weakened horizontal seam in the jib. So we changed down to a #4 jib (why didn't we do this before?, I ask) and continued on with a double reefed main.

I can blame the tear in the main on operator error, and have already fixed the issue that lead to the tear. We eventually got brave enough to fly the full main, and the tear didn't propagate. I will do my own repair rather than make an otherwise unnecessary early trip to Suva.

We were joined on the passage by Mike Webster of Auckland. We met Mike about 12 years ago through an exchange between the Royal Akarana Yacht Club and the Seattle Yacht Club and have stayed in touch ever since. Mike was a joy to have aboard and made our life a lot easier. He actually WANTED to stand long watches in the middle of the night and wouldn't get us up if we didn't hear our alarm over the engine noise. I felt bad about coming on watch late, but appreciate that he was so willing to stay on deck.

Miraculously, NO electronics died on the passage. This is a first for us.

As expected, we continued to have some trouble with leaks, but much better than on prior passages. Despite my efforts in New Zealand, we continue to have a leak down the wiring access hole under the instrument bar, which pours water right into the nav station. We were able to keep this under control by thoroughly plugging the holes under the dodger. I'm starting to understand why most offshore cruisers opt for hard dodgers on their second offshore boat.

Ventilation below decks is a problem when all the hatches have to be closed to keep out the water. Things are hot and humid and nothing will dry out. We are now looking at a way to mount a fan in one of the hatches under the dodger to force some fresh air below decks.

We made our passage in a cluster of five other boat and were within about 100 miles of each other for most of the trip. These boats had some of their own issues, so we feel pretty lucky by comparison.

Passages had both jib sheets on the yankee come loose after a soft shackle chafed through. At the time they were experiencing 40+ knot winds. The clew on the sail couldn't be reached from deck level and they had quite a time getting the sail under control. John is quite black and blue from the experience.

In similar conditions, the roller furler line parted on Imagine. Stewart had an ordeal getting the now fully deployed jib under control, and in the process, one of the jib sheets got wrapped around the prop. At our suggestion, they tied an underwater video camera to the the boat hook (the famous Capaz Cam) to access the damage. In calmer conditions, Stewart went in the water to cut the line free using a knife lashed to the boat hook. Scary, Scary, Scary. Fortunately, he finished the job without getting his head bashed in by the pitching hull and without being noticed by the pelagic wildlife. And, one of the dodger windows was blasted out be a boarding sea.

More by luck than planning, our position more to the east kept us away from the heavier weather that they experienced.

Here are some statistics:

Engine hours: 76
Fuel consumed: ~34 gal
Gal/Hr: ~0.45

Expected trip duration: 8 days
Actual trip duration: 11 days

Expected distance traveled: 1197 Nm
Actual distance traveled: ~1490 Nm

Bill

Thursday, May 19, 2011

Fiji, FINALLY

We arrived Savu Savu this morning. It was very calm and overcast, so we motored.
But that was just fine.

We sailed 300nm longer than the rhumb line, which was 900nm. Doh!

The entrance formalities,were extensive Several officials came aboard:
Quarantine, Immigration, Customs, and Biosecurity. All were a pleasure to deal with.
We haven't been ashore yet, but the landscape is lush.

More about the town next time.

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Monday, May 16, 2011

FINALLY, the Trades

Oh wait, never mind.....it was just a teaser... Then..., back to motoring.
After part of a day on a pleasant broad reach in 15-18kts, our reef and blade were a perfect fit. We still made 7-8kts.
It was sunny too, so we got some solar charging. For the first few days, the cloud cover was so thick
that we got little solar power. So we had to run the engine daily.

Oh well, it's better than bashing to windward. And we got a little laundry done, though it took ages to dry.
Unfortunately, we can't do anything about the wet rugs, growing who knows what. ugh

Last night we saw a fishing boat. It was brilliantly lit, we could see it for miles off. Mike says it must have been a squid boat.
They probably didn't see our tiny light, as they were probably blinded by their own lights.
It was a reminder to keep a good watch.

On the radio this morning we heard more of our (wiser) friends leaving NZ on a nice broad reach.
(What day is it anyway?) A couple gannets came by to give us the once over.

Our landfall is still undecided, could be Lavuka or Savu Savu, depending on where we can make a daylight arrival.

K

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Saturday, May 14, 2011

Wash Rinse Repeat

Yesterday was the same thing all over again. Will it never end? we wondered.
Well of course, it did. Now very light wind. So we motored, which gave a good opportunity to clean up the mess down below.
Lots of stuff has salt water on it, so we need to wash them in fresh water. However, it's so humid, not much is drying....
It is an opportunity to swap out torn jib for #4.
So with 2 reefs (due to torn main) and #4 jib in light air, it's slow going.
Maybe we can motor some more. Too bad we lost that fuel jug overboard a few days ago.

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On the heaving bosom of the ocean

We've been slogging to windward for 6 DAYS! Winds mostly 16-22kts NNE We're on double reef (lost top batten) main and the jib is rolled down to the size of a storm jib, just to keep the boat from pounding too hard. moderate seas. (2meters) a few refreshing showers. Pilot charts say wind is never out of the North here. (must request refund)
We've made 610 nmiles in 6 days,with 590nm to go..There's a stalled high to east. So no matter where we go,we get northerlies.
Bill says we may get 24 hours of southerlies tomorrow. Big deal

We considered waiting at Kermadecs or Minerva Reef. At Minerva, we'd have to deal with invading Fijian Navy.
Though since we've notified arrival in Fiji, maybe no hassle. But anyway we're pressing on. The boat's meant to go to windward,

The boat is mostly closed up and very stuff and everything is salty and damp. ugh.
It's not hot, but warm and muggy. Bill managed to fix MOST of the leaks. Doh!
We should have checked our horoscope before leaving not the gribs and pilot charts. Doh!

Mike Webster (RAYC-SYC exchange) is super crew. He's made this trip many times.
Once on his BOC boat. He said he beat for 7days. Imagine.that!

We have friends around to suffer with. incl Paikea Mist (Van BC) and {Passages) Maple Bay.
I bet it's refreshingly cool in PNW.

It's really hard to write on bouncing heeling boat. And I'm writing on Bill's laptop and the font is very small and hard to see. So forgive typos.
On this board we still get leaks into the nav station so we need to stow laptop a lot..

Kathi and Bill Cuffel

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Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Watching the Weather in Whangarei

Will we or won't we?  What day?
May 4th.   Looks like spaghetti to me.