Pages

Thursday, November 24, 2016

August 2016 - France, continued - Morgat and Concarneau

Bretagne has a scenic, rugged coast line, punctuated by numerous bays for anchoring. 


Our first stop after the Rade de Brest, was Morgat.  It was several miles around the Crozon Peninsula to get there, but we ended up an easy bike ride from our prior stop at Roscanval. 
Low tide

Morgat sits on a pretty and protected bay.  A longtime fishing village, it was taken over and developed in 1883 by Armand Peugeot, as a summer holiday resort for his employees.  So there are many beautiful late 19th century homes in the town.

It has great modern amenities as well: 

Busy sailing schools

Just plain pretty
The sunny, mild weather continued as we rounded the infamous Raz de Sein.  The strong currents were turbulent and we could imagine how rough it could be in stormy weather.  There are many famous calendar photos of these lighthouses inundated by big breaking waves.
Our destination was Concarneau, a beautiful old town with a lively Fishermens' Festival underway.

 It was thronged with tourists.
There was a snug anchorage close by so we could easily get ashore by dinghy.





There

Thursday, October 20, 2016

Breton Bread and Circuses

The Port of Brest sponsored some evening entertainment over the weekend, with some imaginative diversions.  Here's an example:

These guys are milking the cow and powering the carousel
I don't remember what this did.







But here's the result:


August 2016 - Crossing the Channel and our first week in France


Gentle Reader, At long last we'll fill you in on our summer cruise along the Atlantic coast of France.   By now, it's ancient history and some of the photos were already on Facebook, but it was such a wonderful cruise, why not relive it.

After a lovely 10 day visit to Cornwall, we crossed the English Channel from Plymouth to Brest in  NW France. (Well, really it's in Bretagne, or Brittany to English speakers.
 It was an easy, overnight crossing, due to calm weather.  However, it is a very busy shipping channel,  And great care and attention is required.   Here's a screen shot of ship traffic on our plotter:  The lines are ships' tracks in one direction.  There's whole other set going the other way.  The small arrows are predicted wind direction and speed. Once we crossed this mass of ships, we had to do it again for the inbound traffic lane.



Anyhow, we arrived safely in Brest Sunday morning.  Marina du Château staff were very thoughtful and add the US flag to the array when we checked in.  It was a very nice gesture.  As you can see, there are many countries represented.  There is an old fort and museum remaining that overlook the harbor.
We spent several days at Marina du Château.  Checking into Customs and Immigration was perfunctory.

Our friends, Catherine et Pierre, who we met in the Bahamas live nearby and gave us a warm welcome.  Pierre took us to the chandleries and supermarket.  One main problem to resolve was cooking gas.  Portable gas tanks are not refillable in France, and the standard fittings are different than our American ones.  So Pierre got us set up with Camping Gaz bottles, hoses and regulator.



one of several memorials to US troops
It has just a few historic buildings left because it was extensively bombed in WWII by the Allies.  The Germans were occupying the town and had an important submarine base nearby.



Brest is a wonderful town.  They try very hard to keep it clean....  This is a reminder to pick up after walking the dog.

 After some catastrophic modern shipwrecks that cause huge oil spills, the French posted some gigantic remorques, giant tugboats to rescue ships in distress.  They can tow container ships.  The Abeille Bourbon was so big, it was hard to get it all in one photo.  It was open for public tours, and was really impressive.  Anytime there is a gale, the ship puts to sea to be ready for an accident.  I guess the crew must have cast iron stomachs.















The harbor, the Rade de Brest, is a wonderful, enclosed, deep body of water surrounded by small villages.  Perfect for cruising and a submarine base.    We were underway when a sub was being towed out, and the Gendarmes came around and very politely asked us where we are going and please to clear the way.  We could overhear them on the radio to other boats, and they were as polite with all boats.

During WWII, Germany had a navy base and a submarine base in the city.  The surface ships were moored in the river and this section of town was obliterated by allied bombing.  The locals joke that they bombed everything but the submarine pens. The bridge in the photo below replaces the famous Pont National that way destroyed during the war.


Here is large piece of art from the town.  If you look closely, you can see plants growing out of the metal tree.





Saturday, August 13, 2016

Fowey, Cornwall

July 22nd-25th Fowey,  A pleasant, scenic coastal, 25 mile sail away were the were villages of Fowey and Polruan.
Polruan looking inland
Throngs of holiday-makers along the quay
It's a busy little place
 
Polruan shipyard
Pretty stuff afloat
pontoon neighbors

round cockpits?
yep, round
This one's square.  Just another cruiser passing through, like many others from the Brest Maritime Festival on their way north
and ashore
overlooking the entrance




Falmouth, Cornwall England

July 11th-20th
Falmouth, at the mouth of the River Fal, was a beautiful sight, lush and green, full of sailboats, ancient gun forts (King Harry XIII), friendly people and mild weather.  We loved it.
Falmouth basin






Karl took the train back to Paris from here.  It was ridiculously convenient.
St Mawes Town Regatta
Tied to a mid-river pontoon, we met some friendly cruisers
While waiting for a replacement autopilot, we spent a few days up the Fal River.

Low tide...

Truro Cathedral












Friday, July 29, 2016

Passage from the Azores to Falmouth, UK

July 4th - 11th,  ~1200 nmi, straight downwind, 7days, very little motoring.  An amazingly quick trip.
There was lots of food, fuel and water left over.   We actually did some handsteering for something to do. 
Karl on the helm


Since it was downwind in dry, sunny weather, so why not?   Otherwise, it was a normal trip, same watches, same menu, dolphins visited morning and night most days.




Falmouth Harbour and town were a beautiful sight when we arrived.  
Gun Fort, (but King Harry's Castle sounds better)



Pendennis Castle and HMCG station

Beautiful countryside marred by large motor yacht Aquila.  She required a pilot boat to go to and from the fuel dock, where several fuel trucks were also required.
 
Another curious sight: an oil drilling ship

Karl left us the next day.  It was  a short walk to the nearby train station.  With a change to a Chunnel train in London, he was home in Paris for dinner that night...  Thanks Karl!


Thursday, July 28, 2016

Azores - Terceira Island, June 30th - July 4th

On June 30th, we left Faial on a pretty day sail past Sao Jorge and Pico islands to Terceira.
Sao Jorge
The little marina in Praia da Vittoria was less crowded and easier to get around than at Horta where we were the 4th boat rafted off the wall.  It had nice facilities and even bathtubs in the shower rooms!  Terceira is small than Horta, but is more densely populated.  Praia is also a much smaller town.














 We took a bus ride to a beautiful UNESCO protected town of Anchra do Heroismo  one day.

Karl Schulmeisters had joined us a few days before.

Karl and a cannon
on the waterfront

Neat cafe
looks like a giant Christmas tree, doesn't it

Everywhere, was beautiful pavement.
Mosaic pavements everywhere




On July 4th, there was a good weather window to start off for England, so we took off.